March 2021
Rapporteur: Suhasini Udayakumar
Dr. Manjima Bhattacharjya

Dr Manjima Bhattacharjya is a feminist writer and researcher who has studied gender, sexuality, and labour and the female body for over two decades. She has a PhD in Sociology and has been a Fellow of the New India Foundation. An accomplished author, her books Mannequin and Intimate City have explored the relationship between feminism, fashion and sex work.
During this Gender Talk, Dr Bhattacharjya aims to describe the faultlines in feminist protest around the female body, share the lessons from her research experiences about women’s labour, and trace the new directions of the female body in its journey from labour to resource.
Dr Bhattacharjya begins the talk by touching upon the history of feminist protest against the concepts of fashion and beauty. Ever since the 1960s, it was posited that fashion and feminism are enemies. The first protest in the US in support of this notion was against the Atlanta beauty pageant, where protestors threw clothing – including bras – into trash bins, which led to the infamous “bra-burning” moniker. Around this time, sexist advertisements were at their peak; so was the critique of corsets, high heels, makeup etc., which were symbolised as tools of “unfreedom.”
In contrast, Indian debates about women’s objectification were very different, focused only on their “indecent” representation, leading to the Indecent Representation of Women Act in 1986. In 1988, calls for banning beauty pageants began, which had a rather simplistic understanding of beauty and women’s bodily autonomy.
Other media were also called out; for e.g. feminists and censors alike heavily criticised the movie Pati Parmeshwar for its depiction of “good” wives’ ignoble servility. Feminist vigilantes of the late 1980s and early 1990s blackened sexist billboards and wrote to companies who had commissioned the ads. Admittedly, skin show was often regarded as semi-pornographic and confused with sexism. In hindsight, feminists acknowledge that this approach was pseudo-moralistic, and what could be expected of the right-wing today.
In 1994, Sushmita Sen won the Ms Universe pageant and India became a new market for beauty products. Small town girls began moving to metropolitan cities to become models, believing that imitating the physical traits and appearances of successful models would help them achieve much-yearned-for social mobility.
In 1996, the Ms World pageant arrived in India, begetting one of the biggest protests the country has seen. Bangalore city nearly came to a standstill with half its population on the streets; the three distinct protest groups had the same objective – to such down the pageant. The left-wing protested the pageant’s neocolonial globalisation, the right protested the corruption of Indian culture, and the left-leaning feminist groups graduated from protesting the objectification of women to protesting their commodification. However, the right-wing set the direction of discourse and by 1997, the nationalism pill had been swallowed.
With this succinct history lesson, Dr Bhattacharjya begins to describe her research which looks into the labour angle of modelling and its perceptions among all classes and ideological divides. She briefly shows the audience the We Should All Be Feminists t-shirt that took over the fashion industry in 2017 to make a point: in the last 15-20 years, the relationship between fashion and feminism has unprecedentedly changed.
At the onset, she received two very conflicting perspectives from the models she interviewed. The first perspective was that modelling was a job like any other, in that, it was gendered, easy, and merely a paid extension of women’s natural proclivity to dress up. Dr Bhattacharjya discovered that surprisingly, modelling was informal labour, with no security or benefits to the workers. There had been an unsuccessful effort to unionise in 2002; but only from 2017 onward, did a union even first emerge in the west (Model Alliance) which voiced pitiably basic demands such as setting up private changing areas backstage at the New York Fashion Week. The second perspective was that modelling was not like any other job. The central element of this industry is bodywork: models need to be in a marketable body shape, enduring inhumane diets, gym and plastic surgery. Modelling is sexualised labour, since models perform sexuality, borrowing from a certain lexicon of poses and looks, and facing societal stigma for doing so.
Dr Bhattacharjya learned from these interviews that a new class of working women was developing post-globalisation – these were the first generation of young women to leave homes to participate in the workforce. Dr Bhattacharjya explains the framework within which working women normally experience the workplace, using the film Mahanagar as an illustration. Women’s presence in the paid public sector is based on three parameters: invisibility, conditionality, and cost.
Women are conditioned to be secluded in the private space, to exist, but not be seen or heard. The same pattern follows even in their paid roles. Their choice to work is contingent on varying conditions: some models are allowed to model provided they don’t wear bikinis, some women are allowed to work until they get married, and others if they finish their household chores in a timely and proper manner. The cost of their work is stigma or collateral damage to relationships. This stigma extends to all female bodies at work purely by virtue; even in corporate organisations, rules dictate how women shouldn’t dress (no sleeveless or cleavage). Thus, just like the performance of sexuality in modelling, in other industries, women are expected to perform asexuality as a condition of their participation in the workforce (the #MeToo movement visibilised the prejudice that blames women’s behaviour for sexual harassment in workplaces).
In contrast, models on their way to auditions cover themselves up fully, carry large bags with audition clothes, and wait at bus stops all the while being watched and harassed. Once they are at the audition, they take off their clothes and transform into sexual objects. Young women’s bodies are put through a recurring theme of surveillance to spectacle.
Yet another type of bodywork that has emerged is surrogacy. Dr Bhattacharjya draws parallels between surrogacy and sex work by sharing a short documentary, Surabhi Sharma’s Can We See the Baby Bump Please? In the film, we see the surrogates describing the process, the benefits, and the conditions. It is the surrogate’s responsibility to ensure the child is born at a certain weight. If a child is born heavier, the surrogate receives more money. Dr Bhattacharjya observes that the conversations amongst the surrogates are similar to the conversations she heard amongst models at Miss India pageants. There is a certain prescribed curriculum to churn out a perfect batch of bodyworkers, evidencing that the female body is a resource that the market recognises and monetises.

When it comes to sex work, the opinions could not be more contrasting, even amongst feminists. Some abolitionists equate sex work to violence, while other feminists see it as labour. Questions about volition and consent toxify this space, further complicated by funding agendas, trafficking, criminalisation, and moral frameworks. In her book Intimate City, Dr Bhattacharjya attempts to change this lens and study a wider range of geographies, and observe the wider context and web of relationships in sex work.
She locates women’s decisions and choices not just against broader life trajectories but also global macro shifts. She highlights the internet as a space for commercial sex transactions, where combinations of new and old kinds of sex work and different kinds of transactional sex flourish. These may be located in the idea of global smart cities but follow local patterns in their manifestations. It is common to see the deployment of caste capital in digital sex work, allowing the internet to provide access to upper caste and middle-class women. Thus, sex work conflates the use of body capital with caste and cultural capital. There are many fluid categories in such transactions; often, one who provides sex may also pay for sex and vice versa. Also seen are male service providers who cater to female clients.
Digital spaces enabled a big shift in sex work, where transactions weren’t limited to money. Holidays, gifts, and opportunities are commonly transacted. There is a clear-cut financial decision to have or seek transactional sex, driven not just by need, but by fantasy, curiosity, alienation, loneliness, or a desire to expand life experiences. The internet brings the mind and body together, with individuals seeking connections. Such sex work does not fit into traditional categories of violence. Such new platforms and interactions require us to think about the right to privacy within which such transactional sex can be located. Dr Bhattacharjya concludes that this lens needs to be applied to research women’s agency with transactional sex.
Q&A
In the Q&A session, Dr Bhattacharjya reflects on the notion of women’s choice. Does it exist, and if so, what determines it? Even when a woman exercises her choice, she faces social punishments. So one could say freedom doesn’t exist for women. She suggests we look at both micro and macro levels to truly understand women’s choices.
She describes how the choice framework falls short and is limited to certain caste and class circles (we should perhaps look at materiality instead). Locating sex work and intimacy within the private space can have severe consequences on marginalities. It is well-known that margins use their bodies in public spaces. This digital divide, Dr Bhattacharjya admits, is a bias in her research. However, we must note that lower caste and class women also use the digital space now i.e. the public also exists on the internet.
As for transwomen and Dalit women in red light areas, feminists belonging to those marginalities would struggle to see their sex work as work, and instead, see it as gender-based or caste-based labour. More work certainly needs to be done to understand trans sex workers’ experiences.
Dr Bhattacharjya mentions the absence of strong collectives for sex workers; while there exist groups of clients, there are limited groups for providers. When it comes to escorting, she wonders if it should not be seen as transactional sex at all but as gig work. After all, we maintain intimate relationships with so many types of service providers (doctors, nannies etc). Overall, she says the topic of sex work is still bridled at discursive levels, and this needs to change.